New Orleans

Packed a bag, deposited the kids with family and took the wife on a much needed getaway to New Orleans for some R&R before the restaurant opens. Our goal was to immerse ourselves in food and New Orleans culture.

The first night we ate at a place called Butcher.  This is one of my all time favorite places. It's located in an alley in the warehouse district so you have to know about it to find it, but you can tell that the entire staff is truly into their work. The charcuterie is amazing and the menu revolves around the house cured and pickled products. Butcher is inspired by old world meat markets and had has a truly killer vibe, from the local patrons, the staff and the chef who was willing to offer up the tricks of curing and drying. The atmosphere vibrates with an almost a cultish feel as even the servers know their stuff. This place is bad to the bone.

On day two we attempted to try some of the tourist spots but came away disappointed (not naming any names) but we literally jumped from one to another trying the specialties. Later on, we wandered off the tourist path and found the good stuff.  It’s funny that I was chasing a good gumbo, red beans and rice, classic Big Easy fare, and as usual it was the locals that cued me to the golden ticket and suggested this place, Jacques-Imos Cafe in uptown. I read the menu online which offered “real Nawlin’s food” and thought we just had to go as every local we spoke with recommended this place for the comfort classics. We made the pilgrimage (this place is a bit of a drive from the Quarter) only to find it was shut down for summer vacation. I wasn’t upset because I can appreciate that and it left us something to look forward to next visit. I love the people, the atmosphere and the feel of New Orleans. It is a real food city with independent cooks not shadowed by corporate chains. I can even appreciate the places that did not hit my expectation, maybe an off day, every un-chained restaurant has those. Food (good and bad) depends on the owner and the mood of the people you have working for and with you.

For dinner, we decided to try out Chef John Beshs restaurant, August. We were not disappointed. August is un-pretentious and very well done. I (of course) asked a bunch of questions and got along well with the staff right away. As always, a true mark of a great restaurant, they were more than willing to share their tricks of the trade. I found it unique that the restaurant’s business card has cell # on it. I wonder whose it is. Is it John's? My wife and I left feeling extremely full (our fault since we ordered a lot of different items a la cart instead of  prix fixe) and happy with our choice as we were conflicted on which high profile restaurant to choose. We made a good selection.

The next day we continued our quest for food and headed out for breakfast. We found a place, The Camellia Grill, close to the hotel.  This place had was high energy, with two short order cooks splitting the dining room, each cooking for a section of the floor, throwing it down. My wife and I got as close as we could to the stove to watch the cooking as I am always eager to pick up a trick and or critique poor technique. The place was soon packed with a line out the door that lasted until 4 in the afternoon. I have a great admiration for short order cooks. They are a breed all their own and are always fun to watch.  Short order breakfast is arguably one of the most most difficult (and under appreciated) of cooking services. If you want to test a cook, put him or her on breakfast. It’s difficult to do it right and it can be a challenge that early in the morning to have a spring in your step and your mise en place ready to sling out eggs and hash browns. These guys were on! With smiles on their faces, they moved through the calls by ear - no tickets and working the flat tops in a systematic, methodical rhythm. Everyone was enjoying their post, including the servers. You could tell the cooks cared about how they were cooking, paying attention to good technique even though it was basic breakfast. They relished in the speed of their cooking and seemed almost in competition with one another to see who would clear their sections first. The cook who had a second…because all seats where full, won the right to cat call the others lack of skill with great laughter and fun. When this is happening the happiness transcends from the cooks mood to the servers into the food and that is where the magic is at. It was delicious. We stayed past our welcome I am sure, but they did not seem to mind.

As we drove back into Houston we ate again (believe it or not) at a chain that Houston is famous for. We knew what to expect but I couldn’t help thinking to myself that much like the touristy restaurants, the daily grind and strict rules of consistency have an adverse effect on the cook’s attitudes. You can feel it and taste it. Butcher, August, and Camilla’s Grill each one completely different in their menu and approach to food, all share one common ingredient; enjoyment and passion for their work and that is one ingredient even money can't buy. When you to surround yourself with producers, growers, cooks and servers who are not there simply for a paycheck but rather because they love and believe in what they are doing, you will always taste it and feel it in the food. The patronage and the $$$ will certainly follow, to keep good cooks doing what they love and to insure that good restaurants will be there for us to indulge in. The truth is… a passionate cook will always be at the heart of good food.